Treatment guide
Perms, relaxers and keratin smoothing: the risks worth knowing
Chemical straightening, relaxing and perming change the structure of the hair and can burn the scalp when done badly. None of it is licensed in the UK. Some keratin smoothing systems release formaldehyde when heated, which is why ventilation and product disclosure are fair things to ask about.
Last reviewed · How we research and check this
Is it regulated?
No licence is required to perform this anywhere in the UK. Cutting, colouring and styling do not penetrate the skin or apply light, electricity, cold or heat, so they fall outside the scheme’s definition altogether rather than merely awaiting it. Qualification and insurance still matter, and no law requires either.
Product safety is regulated even though the service is not: cosmetic ingredient rules restrict what may be sold and at what concentration. That governs the bottle, not the person applying it.
Basis: Section 180, Health and Care Act 2022 and the Government's consultation response of 7 August 2025, tracked in House of Commons Library briefing CBP-10331.
What the practitioner should hold
Level 2 covers perming; relaxing and smoothing systems are generally Level 3 plus manufacturer-specific training on the exact system being used.
Insurance
Ask whether the policy names chemical straightening and relaxing by name. These are frequently excluded or separately rated because the claims are expensive when they happen.
What it costs
Guide price: we do not yet have enough member listings to publish a reliable range for perms & smoothing. We publish this figure only when there is real data behind it.
Questions to ask before you book
- Which system are you using, and can I see the product?
- Will you strand test first?
- What will this do to my hair if I want to colour it later?
- How is the room ventilated during the treatment?
Red flags
- No strand test before a full-head chemical service
- Cannot or will not name the product being used
- Burning or stinging dismissed as normal
- No aftercare instructions in writing
Common questions
Are keratin treatments regulated in the UK?
The service is not licensed. The products are subject to cosmetic ingredient rules that limit formaldehyde and related substances, but nothing requires the person applying it to hold a qualification.
Should a relaxer burn?
No. Tingling can occur, but burning means the product should come off. Scalp burns from relaxers are a common and avoidable injury, and a trained stylist will check with you throughout rather than leaving product on to a timer.
Members offering perms & smoothing
No members offer this yet. List your business if you do.